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Hacking the i3 battery modules connector – part 3

 Test the wiring

Now that I have all the connector wired up I need to make sure that every wires connects correctly to the battery.

I've used a basic digital tester to check the cables are connected and do make contact. 
Be careful if you do that as these little wires are dangerous.

All was good a part a couple of labels for my sticky tabs that were swapped around for one of the two cables.

I'll be using the labels to connect to the BMS provided ribbon cables. 

I hope that having now done these connectors work I'll have the flexibility to swap and reposition batteries as I like. I still have to see if to keep both batteries at the back or at the have one at the front. I'll let  you know in future posts.
Having these connectors would also allow me to remove the electric kit and reinstall the original IC engine.

If you were to go through a similar process to mine, you'll find useful these tables in the picture that maps the relative voltage coming out from the wires and the a map of the cells and the colour of my cables*.

*note that your battery could use a different cable colouring and it could be configured in a different series that the batteries I've got.






Final touch

To tidy up all the cables I've used an expandable braided sleeve.

Connecting to the BMS ribbon cable balance wires

I could solder these cables together at some point, but for now I'll use Wago 221 connectors that can be easily clipped on and off the wire ends.
The BMS is a 24s and came with 2 ribbon cables. The first one you distinguish it from the black wire for the first position (B-) the second has a red wire instead for the last cell pole.

i3 BMW connector and cable map

Next step

Test again the ribbon cable connector is wired as required by the BMS.

Ant BMS 24S

References

To learning about wiring and connecting the BMS to the battery I have found a couple of interesting resources on Youtube.






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